I did have to adjust the print properties X and Y axis by a couple of millimeters to get the images centered perfectly around the spindle hole. I hope this helps you. I was not about to pay 30 bucks for a piece of plastic. It took me several days to figure out what material to use that was the right thickness. The Reebok box is very thin corrugated cardboard, and with 2 layers it is right at 2mm thick. This is a great Instructable, but you need to add a main image of the final project to the intro step.
Please do that and leave me a message when you have so that we can publish your work. Reply 13 years ago. At the risk of falling afoul of the comment policy I address more than the original poster in what follows; take this as general commentary and observation, not specific to this - or any other - particular instructable.
I'm hoping to stir some needed discussion, and perhaps induce some change by writing: the more I read instructables, the more I am convinced that far too many people missed some valuable - even vital - instruction when they were in grade school.
And probably also high school. For the purposes of an instructable, describing - in natural language - what you yourself have accomplished in the hope of helping someone else to accomplish the same or similar should not be difficult. And the result should be clear, concise, and comprehensible to any reader of average intelligence and average facility in the language.
I find lately that too many instructables fail in hitting only one of these three targets - the trio that is the foundation of technical writing. However, concision matters not a whit if concision itself detracts from the clarity and the comprehensibility of the text.
This is not to say that there is an overabundance of concision. No, there are certainly issues with clarity and comprehensibility in many, many instructables.
Failing to stop the downward slide of the quality of instructables, broadly, via the application of a "be nice" comment policy undermines the value that instructables potentially represents - to many people, on quite a number of levels - by forestalling, completely, fair criticism and comment on the whole of what instructables is, and is becoming Don't shoot the messenger.
Are u still there? I made mine for MPR and did not work, must the square holes be perfect, I mean can they be larger? Reply 10 years ago on Introduction. I found the problem!! Now I just have to align it!!! I find this to be of great use, but can you provide with measurements as well as the pictures? I have no idea what the measurements need to be. Now stick it to the clear plastic and move it around to ensure complete contact.
The last pictures show the front and back. Now try it in the printer so see how it fits. It should be snug but NOT tight. If it is tight at all just use the razor and shave here and there until it fits- just a little at a time!
If it is too loose then you will never get an identical print when printing on the disks. It needs to be near perfect of you will have a lot of trouble consistently aligning the printer to print correctly on the disk. That's it, feel free to ask questions. Nice t o know about Pixma CD tray new things always fascinate its natural. I always search new blogs about CDs. I got new offers by Easy Replication and your post has given me new ideas.
For more to know please visit. Reply 10 years ago on Introduction. I would like to try this, but the pattern link is still not working. Is there any way I can get that? Sorry I've been MIA for so long. The original hosting site no longer exists, but I was able to find the file. If this one disappears just let me know! Pls, I have the original tray for pixma IP , but it do not work with IP, when try to print, load the tray and reject without print.
In your picture link, it is broken, so I can not compare you device with my CD tray to copy the back side. I need to see for add small square windows with metal foil. My email is mshtamoff videonet-tv. Thanks in advance. I have a Pixma MPR EU version, SO I had to make some modification in the template, everthing seems to be allright following the original CD disk tray F, but for somehow the printer rejects it everytime, I made a second one with the square holes precisly as the original but even so the printer rejects it.
Any ideia, any sugestion will be very apreciated. I found the problem!! Now I just have to align it!!! Hey Drywater, thanks for sharing!
Thanks to you I don't have to pay for the disck tray wich is expensieve. Thanks pal!!!!! It was a pain in the butt to get, but I got it. Reply 11 years ago on Introduction. Reply 12 years ago on Introduction. What kind of sheet metal? What thickness?
The tray I made following yr instructions works perfectly. So I'll probly have to make a more durable one soon Thanks for your contribution. You gave me the satisfaction of NOT having to buy yet another doomed-to-obsolescence and unrepairable Epson!
I do not know what kind of sheet metal it is. It was found on a role in the garage. I assume it is used for flashing when re-roofing, but do not really know. It is very thin and was easily cut using tin snips unlike steel computer casing, for example. I posted a picture in the post which shows the total thickness. The tin is just less than. I used a grinder to smooth out the "snipped" edges of the metal. Hope this helps. Does anyone know what the max thickness should be or what thickness works?
And if the cd is flush with the tray or stands proud? It also looks like there are no small clips in the center of any of the home made trays. Wont there be an issue with shifting or rotating slightly? I am not sure of the max thickness but mine is about 0.
I should update this instructable now as I have found sheetmetal to work much better than the clear plastic show in this instructable. I still use the black plastic to make the hole in then adhere to the metal as it's much easier to cut than the sheet metal. The CD does not need to be flush as long as it is low enough to pass through the printer. The black part is just to keep it from moving around. In my current tray the disk sits just above flush of the black layer so with the disk it is just over 0.
I am planning on sanding the back side of the sheet metal a bit to get it the total height with the disk to be closer to 0.
The only reason is because the rollers press the disk a bit too much so if looked at in the right light you can see the wide tracks on the disk. Of course it is not high enough to catch the print head so it is perfectly safe but if it were a bit more low profile I think the final output would be better than perfect.
The tray only needs to keep the disk from moving around and is not needed to prevent it from rotating.
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