Ultimate tool stand

Then weight the top for clamping pressure Photo 6. Once the glue has set, remove the weights, flip over the torsion box assembly and glue on the bottom T1. With the torsion box complete, add the casters and the levelers T7. The carcass is then screwed down onto the torsion box Fig. There are four boxes that complete the tool stand. Two of the boxes are permanently fixed to the top to form the tool well Fig.

The other two, the downdraft table Fig. C and the router table box Fig. D are used as inserts between the fixed end boxes. Assemble the fixed boxes with glue and screws Photo 7. Add plastic laminate for a durable top. T-slots in the top with a dado blade on your tablesaw. Attach the fixed boxes to the top and be sure to keep all the edges flush Fig.

Assemble the downdraft box from the inside out Fig. First, glue and screw the two inside ribs C5 to the filler pieces C6 to create the interior structure. Then attach the bottom.

Use the spacer stick to attach the outside ribs. Note: The sides of the insert boxes are inset 1-in. Drill a 3-in. Use a countersink to widen the opening of each hole. Assemble the router table box. Note: The bottom of the router table box is cut 2-in. This allows the router table to be lifted in and out of the well with the router attached.

The router is mounted onto a table insert that sits flush to the top. This allows you to lift the entire router out of the table for changing bits.

Make two 8 in. These holes allow room for a pair of hands to adjust the router. To make positioning of the saw and the auxiliary fences easier, line up the front edge of the saw base with the front edge of the tool stand well.

Mount T-nuts to the underside of the carcass top Fig. A and secure the saw with T-handle knobs. Nail the stop blocks to the fixed boxes. Your planer bed may vary, so size the supports accordingly. Now your shop will seem two sizes larger without moving a single wall!

Rough cut sheet stock down to a manageable size with a circular saw. Remember, MDF is dusty stuff, use dust control whenever possible. Make a part template from MDF. Square a straightedge on a rough-cut end, then rout a perfectly square crosscut with a flush-trim bit.

Once you have one 24 in. Gang all the torsion box core pieces together and notch them on the tablesaw. Mark the common ends of each core piece so they can be assembled in the same orientation they were cut. One surefire way to get a square end is to use a straightedge and a router with a flush-trim bit Photo 2. Then trim the ends with a router and a flush-trim bit. Use a 24 in. The smaller parts can be accurately cut on your tablesaw or chop saw.

Create a flat surface on which to build the torsion box by building the carcass first. Assemble the carcass top, bottom C1 and sides C2 using glue and screws. The dividers C2 are fastened with screws only, so the interior divisions can be altered for future needs.

Be sure all the edges are flush as you build. Use a perfectly square back D4 to square up the cabinet. Laid on its back, the assembled carcass now provides the dead-flat surface needed to build the torsion box.

Rough cut sheet stock down to a manageable size with a circular saw. The downdraft table insert captures fugitive dust and keeps your shop and your lungs clean. Flip it over and you have a continuous top with slotted channels for machining and gluing.

Cut sheet stock down to size over the open well. No more wrestling with large stock on the tablesaw or trying to cut it down on a pair of wobbly sawhorses. The chop saw stand handles long stock with ease.